When I saw the title of Lola Milne's cookbook, "One Dish Fish" (Kyle Books, 2020), I knew it was for me. I often turn to seafood when I want to toss together a quick weeknight meal, because the proteins generally cook quickly and are easily complemented with a little fat and a few fresh or dry herbs.

If you're comfortable cooking seafood, you'll likely agree. If not, Milne's cookbook might help you slide into that comfort zone. She features 70 recipes for white-fleshed fish, such as cod, haddock or sole; oilier fish, such as salmon and mackerel; and shellfish, including shrimp, squid and clams.

All the dishes are made in the oven in one pan, so no transferring or flipping of delicate seafood required. She divides her recipes by timing: ready in 20, 30 or 45 minutes.

The dish featured here, which can be made with shrimp or dry scallops, was in her 20-minute chapter and made sans potatoes as a starter. She suggested adding potatoes to make it a meal and, with them, it took me just under 30 minutes to get it on the table. (And, yes, it meant I had to use a second pan to boil the potatoes, but it was still pretty darn quick with easy cleanup.)

The only thing that takes a bit of time is slicing the Brussels sprouts into thin strips. Put the potatoes on to boil, then start prepping your sprouts. Once the sprouts and shrimp are in the oven, you'll have time to make the aioli and even a green salad and a light vinaigrette, if you like. (If you're so inclined, slip a bottle of sauvignon blanc in the refrigerator before you start cooking.)

Fancy enough for company

The dish is fancy enough for company, too, especially if you transfer the potatoes and roasted sprouts and shrimp to a pretty platter rather than eating it from the sheet pan, like we did. The small bowl of garlic-lemon aioli can be served on the side, so diners can dollop it onto their shrimp and/or dip their potatoes. (If you have any leftover aioli, put it on your next tuna sandwich. So good.)

For us, the dish felt festive – even a bit playful as we dipped and dolloped – which we embraced on a gray, fall evening after a long day of work.

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